The months and days the travelers of eternity.
The years that come and go are also voyagers.
In 1878 (Meiji 11), Isabella Bird, then 46 years old, arrived at the port of Yokohama, Japan, on May 20th, after completing her journey in Hawaii. She stayed in various towns in the Kanto region, including Asakusa in Tokyo. Following the embankment road and taking in the continuous villages of the Kanto Plain, she headed towards Nikko on June 10th and arrived there on June 13th, before eventually staying in Niigata.
"We set out early this morning in a light drizzle and climbed straight up a hill under a row of cedar trees that stretched for eight miles. The vegetation was lush, suggesting the hot and humid summer climate and the abundant rainfall of the mountainous region."
The Toshogu Shrine in Nikko is a mausoleum of Japanese architecture and gardens. Due to the anti-Buddhist policies of the Meiji period, the grand ceremonies and Buddhist fixtures had been removed. Although it had changed since the Tokugawa period, Bird marveled at the dragon head and peony lattice carvings of the Yomeimon gate, and the arabesque patterns, noting "Wealth and art have created a paradise with gold and color." She also saw the pagoda containing Ieyasu's remains, a bronze crane, and a vase of lotus flowers and wrote, "Outside, the grandeur of nature envelops the tomb of the great general in exquisite sorrow," capturing Japan as it was in the Edo period through the eyes of a foreigner
In the spring of 1689 (Genroku 2), on May 16th (old calendar March 27th), Matsuo Basho left Edo Fukagawa and headed towards Nikko. It was the beginning of his journey for "The Narrow Road to the Deep North," and he arrived in Nikko on May 19th. For the people of the Edo period, Nikko was a place where Kobo Daishi (Kukai) renamed the land from Futara Mountain to Nikko, a place abundant in benevolent water and wild lands, and a haven of tranquility for all classes. There was so much to admire that he could not put down his brush.
The passing of spring –
Birds cry laments
and the eyes of fish fill with tears
On sacred Mount Nikko
New leaves, green leave
Radiant in the light of the sun
For a while, I shall remain
Secluded by the waterfall
At the start of summer
During the rainy season, Basho crossed the Shirakawa barrier, passed through Fukushima, headed towards Sendai, and went further north from Matsushima to Hiraizumi.
Summer grasses –
All that remains,
Of warriors' dreams
All these years and rainy seasons,
Was it only you that was spared
Sacred hall of Gold.
Deep silence –
Permeating rokks,
The shrill of cicadas
While crossing the Mogami River on his way to Niigata, Basho waited for a boat in Oishida during the rainy season around the old calendar May 29th. The Mogami River, with its source in Yonezawa and upstream in Yamagata, was known as a difficult passage during the Edo period.
May's rains gathered fast,
Swiftly flows ,
The Mogami river
Basho climbed Mount Haguro, one of the Three Mountains of Dewa, which also includes Mount Gassan and Mount Yudono. The shrine on Haguro, part of the Tendai sect, is known as a training center for monks and is revered and feared as a sacred site.
In the coolness –
a faint crescent moon hovers
over Black Feather Mountain
Peaks of cloud –
How many have crumbled,
To the moon mountain
Afterward, Isabella Bird stayed in Niigata for over a week at the beginning of July to observe Christian missionary activities. It was the rainy season without a clear day, but she saw Niigata, a port town on the Japan Sea side with a population of 50,000 at the mouth of the Shinano River. Government offices and schools had been established, and an English school had 150 students. At the time, Niigata Prefecture had a population of 1.5 million, making it the most populous prefecture. It was a major production area for rice and other crops, canals were used for transportation, and she saw a newly developed and clean city area.
Matsuo Basho passed through Fukushima and Sendai and arrived in Niigata from Sakata in the old calendar July. He didn't show much interest in the city of Niigata, and his thoughts turned to the next leg of his journey, the 130 ri (about 520 km) to the Kaga province capital of Kanazawa, enjoying the natural scenery.
July moon –
Not the usual night,
Even on the sixth day
Above the rough seas,
Stretching herself out over Sado Island,
The Milky Way
Isabella Bird's journey took her from Niigata to Yamagata, Yokote, Akita, and Aomori, before crossing to Hakodate in Hokkaido. That year was marked by an unusually long rainy season, and in the town of Hirakawa in Aomori Prefecture, she encountered flooding caused by more than a week of heavy rain that had swollen the local river.
As she described, "Each wave, frothing with a yellow-brown foam, reared its crest, much like the mane of a chestnut horse." Logs and trees were swept away, and bridge abutments were eroded. Of the 19 bridges in the area, only two remained, and almost all the roads had been washed away. Afterward, she finally reached Kuroishi by alternately riding horses and human-powered carts. It was a beautiful town 22 and a half miles from Aomori. During her journey, Bird wore American mountain attire and Wellington boots, riding packhorses. In heavy rain, she used a mino (straw raincoat) and umbrella to avoid getting soaked.
Basho's "The Narrow Road to the Deep North" is a symbol of Japanese culture, a classic of haiku poetry, and one of the best-known literary works of the Edo period. Two hundred years later, British-born Isabella Bird arrived in Japan after her travels in Canada, America, Oceania, and Hawaii. She journeyed through parts of Japan unvisited by foreigners and published "Unbeaten Tracks in Japan."
Unlike Basho, a haiku poet who traveled in a historical context, Bird wrote about Japan in the same season but with a different perspective and spatial view. In her work, she depicted regional children, women's customs, and traditions, as well as nature, elements that have changed little since the Edo period.
Isabella Bird continued to travel to China, the Malay Peninsula, the Sinai Peninsula, Tibet, Persia, and Morocco. Her keen observational eye, free from preconceptions and informed by a broad cultural background, made her travelogues enduring classics read worldwide.
My body ,now lose to fifty years of age ,has become an old tree that bears bitter peaches' a snail which ha lost its shell ,a bagworm separated from its bag; it drifts with the winds and clouds that know no destination .